Say Aliağa and everyone pictures a refinery — fair enough, but that's not where this story happens. Head toward Şakran, cross over to Çandarlı, maybe push all the way to Uçansu Falls; the view tells a different Aliağa than the one everyone assumes. Come on a weekday, the crowds thin out and nobody at the fish stalls seems to mind. If İzmir's touristy side has worn you out, let the dice land here.