Narlıdere is one of the districts that's changed fastest in recent years — the coast got a makeover, glossy developments landed one after another, cafés opened steadily. It backs onto Çatalkaya and faces the gulf. A historic cemevi from the Tahtacı community still stands here. Evenings catch decent light; late at night things go quiet. Just when you think there's nothing left to do, a modest spot turns up two streets over and surprises you.